Tahquitz/Suicide/Joshua Tree, California

April 24-25, 1999

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I combined a business trip with a climbing trip and got two days of great climbing in with Seth, an old climbing buddy from Rhode Island who moved to LA. The plan was to climb some long routes on Tahquitz but the weather had other plans. It snowed the night I arrived in Idyllwild and when Seth arrived the next morning it was pouring. We drove up to the trailhead and took some photos of the snow. Then Seth suggested Joshua Tree. An hour and a half later we were there, in the desert, in tee-shirts, rock everywhere. If you're ever happen upon Joshua Tree at the spur of the moment, like I did, you can rent quidebooks and get some friendly beta from the gift shop right at the west entrance. We headed to Indian Cove where we did a bunch of trad routes including: Lucky Charms 5.7, Moosedog Tower; Duchess 5.6, Feudal Wall; Bombay 5.8, Short Wall; and a few other routes that we made up as we went.

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Seth on top of Moosedog Tower





Joshua Tree has a sand-paper rough quartz monzonite that can be crumbly on some routes. I didn't think that the protection was good even on those routes with what the guidebook called "good protection."

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Seth striking a pose after soloing an unnamed spire.








We were back at Tahquitz the next day and made the steep approach up to its base.

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Tahquitz Rock







Considering the conditions, we decided on doing Angel's Fright a five pitch 5.5. We were knee deep in snow at the start of the route and there was glare ice on the rock. So we decided against anything stupid and turned around and hiked back down.

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The views were worth the hike. Across the valley was Suicide Rock and it was snow free.

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Suicide Rock






Suicide is lower in elevation and was catching more sun. So we hiked up and checked it out. Suicide is known for it's long run-outs. We grunted up the Escalator, taking the 5.7 variation to avoid wet rock, and wandered around a ledge checking out the routes above that were either too wet or too run-out. After rapping down, we discovered the Buttress of Cracks and did The Hernia a great 5.8 with atypically good pro.