Other Areas/Potential Areas

Dinosaur Rock, Hopkinton, RI

Closed to Climbing
I was informed by the Rhode Island Boy Scouts (9/25/03) that Dinosaur Rock is on their land and is closed to climbing.
Dinosaur rock is exactly that...a large rock. It does not have an extensive amount of routes. The rock is about 20-25 feet in height. The rock is granite mostly vertical and with the exception of some horizontal cracks it is featureless making for some hard routes. There are no known established routes on the cliff.

Ell and Long Pond Natural Area, Hopkinton, RI

There are a number of cliffs in this wildlife refuge. It is heavily posted with "No Rock Climbing" signs. Getting permission to climb is probably impossible and for that reason I do not include directions on how to get there.
Long Pond near Rockville has some excellent climbing. Unfortunately, the nature conservancy/audubon society prohibited climbing when they bought the land. The obvious rock by the lake is good, but better cliffs are found on the opposite side, in the woods. The best route, Vertical Offenders, is about 5.10b, 45 feet long, vertical, and has a pin and bolt on it. It was toproped in the late 70's (legally) and lead in the 80's by a couple of trespassers. Another good route is Smegma delight, 5.9, an overhanging layback with similar tr/lead history.
Ward Smith (reformed Rhode Islander)

Fort Wetherill State Park, Jamestown, RI

Closed to Climbing
The RI Department of Environmental Management does not allow climbing at this state park. The climbing community has a good relationship with the DEM in allowing climbing on all other state lands. So please do not climb here.

Fox Den, Burrillvile, RI

Take Snake Hill Road off Rt 102 (Victory Highway) from the village of Glendale in Burrillvile. The cliff is located about 300 yards behind private residences on the eastern side of Snake Hill Road near the intersection of Barnes Road. I know of no way to get to the cliff without parking problems and trespassing across someone's land.

Mapleville, RI

Cliffs can be seen from the Little League baseball field located off Casino Avenue in Mapleville village (Burrillville). Go to back side of field directly across from ballfield entrance cross small river. (In the spring when I went there this was a raging torrent.) Must wade through river, follow foot trail to old railroad bed, turn right on railroad bed for about 600 yards, turn left off bed. Cross field stay on foot path, cross small stream and follow trail to top of cliff. Three sets of cliffs from left to right (North to South) at three different levels. Many climbs on each cliff. Furthest cliff to the right is highest climb. I'm not sure whether there are access issues (i.e. you're trespassing).

Newport Cliff Walk

The sea wall has no routes. Climb where ever/what ever you can. Get there at low tide. There are guard rail posts for top rope anchors. You may want to back them up. There are reports of climbers getting kicked out by police. Park where ever you can find parking at the end of anyone of the streets near Salve Regina University that lead down to the Cliff Walk.

Pohegnut Ledge, Groton, CT

The cliff is a good hike in from RT 184 and not easy to find. It is a couple of hundred feet long and about fifty-feet high. It is located on Groton Resevoir land and is posted no tresspassing. The fence that separates the resevoir land and non-posted land runs right up to the cliff so that the bottom of the cliff is on posted property. The rock is dirty with quite a bit of lichen. If you could get access, and if you cleaned some routes with a wire brush this could be a good local crag.

Tiverton

There is a fifty-foot cliff on private land in Tiverton that was bolted by local climbers and climbers from Roger Williams University. There are eight bolted routes. (Bolts chopped in 2002.) It is deep in the woods and difficult to find. It is currently posted with no trespassing signs and for that reason I do not include directions on how to get there. If I learn more about the access issues I will post the information.

Westerly Quarry, Westerly, RI

This is an active quarry but if they would stop quarrying and if someone could get permission to climb there it would probably be the best climbing area in Rhode Island.

Wolf Hill Quarry, Smithfield, RI

This is an abandoned quarry. There are four walls ranging from 20 to 60 ft in height. This area is being developed by a local climber and there is detailed information on his site . Be careful of loose rock. From I-295 take the Route 44 exit. Head west and take a right onto Route 5. Take a right onto Pleasent View at the stop sign. Continue taking the first right onto Spragueville Rd. At the bottom of the hill take a right and the quarry is immediately on your left. Park on the left in front of the gate. Access apparently has not been an issue.