Other Areas/Potential Areas

Diamond Hill, Cumberland, RI

Closed to Climbing
Diamond Hill State Park was once a state run ski area. It was sold to the town of Cumberland for $1 by the state and is no longer a state park. Due to perceived liability issues the town bans any recreational use of the land, including sledding, skiing, and climbing. The parking area and the approach to the cliff is not posted with no climbing signs but the main entrance to the former state park is. There is a house now sitting on top of the cliff. The cliffs at Diamond Hill average 40 to 60 feet in height and it was the best climbing area in the state. It has a long history of climbing. An out-of-print guidebook entitled A Climber's Guide to DIAMOND HILL Cumberland, R.I. was written by Ron Rocha and Allan Li in 1980 and is republished here with the permission of the author.

Dinosaur Rock, Hopkinton, RI

Closed to Climbing
I was informed by the Rhode Island Boy Scouts (9/25/03) that Dinosaur Rock is on their land and is closed to climbing.
Dinosaur rock is exactly that...a large rock. It does not have an extensive amount of routes. The rock is about 20-25 feet in height. The rock is granite mostly vertical and with the exception of some horizontal cracks it is featureless making for some hard routes. There are no known established routes on the cliff.

Ell and Long Pond Natural Area, Hopkinton, RI

Closed to Climbing
There are a number of cliffs in this wildlife refuge. It is heavily posted with "No Rock Climbing" signs. Getting permission to climb is probably impossible and for that reason I do not include directions on how to get there.
Long Pond near Rockville has some excellent climbing. Unfortunately, the nature conservancy/audubon society prohibited climbing when they bought the land. The obvious rock by the lake is good, but better cliffs are found on the opposite side, in the woods. The best route, Vertical Offenders, is about 5.10b, 45 feet long, vertical, and has a pin and bolt on it. It was toproped in the late 70's (legally) and lead in the 80's by a couple of trespassers. Another good route is Smegma delight, 5.9, an overhanging layback with similar tr/lead history.
Ward Smith (reformed Rhode Islander)

Fort Wetherill State Park, Jamestown, RI

Closed to Climbing
The RI Department of Environmental Management does not allow climbing at this state park. The climbing community has a good relationship with the DEM in allowing climbing on all other state lands. So please do not climb here. RI DEM Park and Management Regulations, 17.9 Rock climbing is permitted at state parks, and management areas except at Fort Wetherill State Park.

Fox Den, Burrillvile, RI

Take Snake Hill Road off Rt 102 (Victory Highway) from the village of Glendale in Burrillvile. The cliff is located about 300 yards behind private residences on the eastern side of Snake Hill Road near the intersection of Barnes Road. I know of no way to get to the cliff without parking problems and trespassing across someone's land.

Mapleville, RI

Cliffs can be seen from the Little League baseball field located off Casino Avenue in Mapleville village (Burrillville) in the winter. Take Casino Avenue into the ball field.  The ball fields will be on your left.  Park your car on the right hand side of the road behind the third field. Walk into the woods, parallel to the road walking away from CasinoAve.  The river will be about 100 yds in.  Head down river and cross the big old maple tree.  Once you cross head up river 25 yds, look for old foot path, when in doubt proceed uphill.  Your back will now be to the river.  You will proceed on path and you will see blue pipes in the ground.  Go Right.  Proceed on path.  Look for foot path on left. Land mark will be huge pine tree (trunk probably 4 feet round with deer stand in it). Take this trail. Proceed down trail into open field.  Walk though field but stay towards your left.  At end of field you will see footpath.  Proceed down this foot path for 100 to 200 yds.  At the elephant tree (pine tree with funky branch going horizontal) take a right. Proceed 100 feet and cross gully.  After 20 more feet the trail splits. Look straight ahead for subtle path going up the hill.  Take this path up hill and look for rock. I'm not sure whether there are access issues (i.e. you're trespassing).

Pohegnut Ledge, Groton, CT

The cliff is a good hike in from RT 184 and not easy to find. It is a couple of hundred feet long and about fifty-feet high. It is located on Groton Resevoir land and is posted no tresspassing. The fence that separates the resevoir land and non-posted land runs right up to the cliff so that the bottom of the cliff is on posted property. The rock is dirty with quite a bit of lichen. If you could get access, and if you cleaned some routes with a wire brush this could be a good local crag.

Tiverton

There is a fifty-foot cliff on private land in Tiverton that was bolted by local climbers and climbers from Roger Williams University. There were eight bolted routes but the bolts were reportedly chopped in 2002. You can see the cliff on the east side of Main Road in the winter. Last I knew it is posted with no trespassing signs and for that reason I do not include directions on how to get there. If anyone wants to try to get permission from the landowner let me know and I will give you more specifics.

Westerly Quarry, Westerly, RI

This is an active quarry but if they would stop quarrying and if someone could get permission to climb there it would probably be the best climbing area in Rhode Island.

Wolf Hill Quarry, Smithfield, RI

This is an abandoned quarry. There are four walls ranging from 20 to 60 ft in height. This area is being developed by a local climber and there is detailed information on his site . Be careful of loose rock. From I-295 take the Route 44 exit. Head west and take a right onto Route 5. Take a right onto Pleasent View at the stop sign. Continue taking the first right onto Spragueville Rd. At the bottom of the hill take a right and the quarry is immediately on your left. Park on the left in front of the gate. Access apparently has not been an issue.