Orange -Swan Dive, 5.9, Yellow- Zen Master, 5.10, Blue - Indian Wrestler, 5.10+, Red - Porcelain Arête, 5.9-
Red - Porcelain Arête, 5.9-, Yellow - Alabaster, 5.9+, Orange - Milky Way, 5.10+
Blue - Milky Way, 5.10, Red - Black Jack Crack, 5.9, Yellow - Skunk Dog, 5.8
Yellow - Hard Wall, 5.10, Red - unnamed, 5.9+
Lower West Side
Yellow - Hunch, 5.8, Red - Guess What, 5.10-
Green - unnamed 5.9, Blue - Spider Veins 5.9, Yellow- unnamed - 5.4
Red - Cam-a-lot 5.6, Yellow - South Wind 5.9, Blue - Air Pockets 5.8, Green - unnamed 5.5
Red - unnamed, 5.5, Yellow - unnamed, 5.8
Orange - Foxbite, 5.11+, Blue - Vulpes, 5.12-, Green - Borderline, 5.10-
Yellow - Black Vulture, 5.9+, Red - Stinger, 5.11, Green - Stung, 5.12-, Blue - Dyno-Might, 5.10
Cardiac Arete, 5.10
Route Descriptions and Known Route History
Main Cliff (Left to Right)
Starting Point 5.3. A scramble up the broken left side of the cliff. Sometimes used to practice leading.
Sharper Image 5.6. A slightly easier and less interesting line than Blackbeard.
Blackbeard 5.7. A fun climb and one of the few good leads on the cliff, however, placing gear does require hanging off one arm near the top. Finishes up the steep arête.
Jolly Roger 5.8. A fairly sustained line that stays just to the right of Blackbeard and finishes up the corner to the right.
Swan Dive, 5.9. This is the long traversing diagonal crack that starts over on Jolly Roger and finishes on Indian Wrestler. Spicy lead on small gear.
Zen Master, 5.10, FA (TR): Christopher Czapla 1992 or 93. FA (lead): Christopher Czapla, 1994. Starts directly under a very thin crack about ten feet up. Go to the crack wander right than back left heading for the crack on Swan Dive. Surmount the bulges (crux) and on to the top.
Indian Wrestler, 5.10+. Starts directly under the distinct hand crack just to the left of the corner. Crimp your way up to the crack (crux) and then cruise the crack to the top.
Porcelain Arête, 5.9-. The Lantern Hill classic route goes up the obvious arête to the top.
Alabaster, 5.9+. This line is around the corner from the main face and goes up just right of the Porcelain Arête corner. Goes over the overhang at the top.
Milky Way, 5.10+. Shares the start with Black Jack Crack then diagonals left up the thin crack to the top.
Black Jack Crack, 5.9. A fun hand size crack that does not require hand jamming if you do it right. From the “cave” diagonal up to the top on crack to the left.
Skunk Dog, 5.8. What looks like it starts out to be a painful grunt in a chimney is actually a very fun layback. Layback the chimney until it brings you to a “cave” then continue up the chimney at the top with one chimney move or stemming.
Upper West Side (Left to Right)
Hard Wall, 5.10. Starts about in the middle of the wall. Go up on crimpers weaving left on the path of least resistance until you can gain the diagonal crack. Follow that to the top. There is a 5.11 variation that goes straight up to the end of diagonal crack
Unnamed, 5.9+. Climb the outside corner to the top.
Commitment, 5.8, FA: Brian Phillips, Jen Reed, Jun 2006. Go up a large diagonal crack and pull the overhang to the left. This is spicy lead because the crux is largely unprotected. Almost impossible to top-rope without trashing your rope.
Lower West Side (Left to Right)
Hunch, 5.8, FA (TR): Brian Phillips, Dec 2009. Scramble down an unobvious path below the main cliff to find this climb. Goes up the middle of the wall on clean crimpers.
Guess What, 5.10-, FA (TR): Ken Nichols, Apr 2010. Just to the right of Hunch.
North West Side (Left to Right)
Unnamed, 5.9. Starts on the left corner and trends right to the top.
Spider Veins, 5.9. Goes up the middle of the face.
Unnamed, 5.4. Inside corner on left. Not worth doing.
Cam-a-lot5.6. FA Brian Phillips, Jen Reed, Jun 2006. Starts on left corner. Takes big cams.
South Wind 5.9. Starts to the right of Cam-a-lotand goes straight up to finish in the same crack.
Air Pockets 5.8. Goes straight up the middle of the face.
Unnamed 5.5. Goes up the path of least resistance on the right side of the face.
Unamed, 5.5, Follows the inside diagonal corner on the cliff just to the right of the face.
Unnamed, 5.8 Follows the arête.
Foxbite, 5.11-, FA (TR): Glenn Gello, August 2008. FA (lead): Ken Nichols, May 2009. Biting hard crimpers following incipient crack.
Vulpes, 5.12- FA (TR): Ken Nichols, May 2009. Goes straight up between the corner and Foxbite then weaves slightly left under a small overhang and on to top.
Borderline, 5.10-, FA Ken Nichols, Glenn Gello, May 2009. Layback arête to the top.
East Side (Left to Right)
Black Vulture, 5.9+, FA (TR): Brian Phillips, Oct 2009. Goes up slightly overhanging blocks. Beware of loose rock.
Stinger, 5.11, FA (TR): Ken Nichols, Oct 2009. Slightly overhanging crimpers in the middle of the face.
Stung, 5.12- FA (TR): Rob Werk, Nov 2012. A harder line just to the right of Stinger.
Dyno-Might, 5.10, FA (TR): Brian Phillips, Oct 2009. A few hard moves to a fun dyno to a crimp. Then on to the top on easier rock.
Cardiac Arete, 5.10, FA (TR) Kevin Sweeney, Feb 2012. On a cliff to the right (north). Loose dangerous rock.
Porcelain Arête - Main Cliff
Dave Curry on Jolly Roger - Main Cliff
Ken Nichols on Stinger - East Side